@Sebastian-Nilsson Maybe, but be careful with the PL2303 USB TTL-adapter boards or cables - the one I have (came with a Raspberry Pi- Adafruit) measures 5 volts on the Vcc line and 4.7V on the data lines and there is no jumper option for 3v3. The Omegas are rated at 3.3 ~ 3.6V. I powered an Omega2 for perhaps an hour with that PL2303 and the Omega's RF shield got really hot, then I measured the voltage on the PL2303's lines and decided not to do that again! If you care about the longevity of your Omega powering it with 5V is not a good choice.
A CP210X adapter like WereCatf recommended is the USB TTL adapter to get, they always work and have 3V3 lines.
Guys, this one is closed. I am just an idiot and didn't properly follow through with some of the pre-existing solved threads. Thanks for helping me and making me realize that I might be able to fix this myself!
Might want to be careful about that - unless there's level translation circuitry in there, you are putting substantial stress on the MT7688 serial pins (input especially) by connecting that 3.3v device to a 5v Arduino.
This is one of the issues I have with the Omega2 as against the Omega1. The Omega1 runs on the same 3.3v but the IO pins were explicitly stated to be 5v tolerant. They play well with Arduino and Arduino shields running on 5v.
I even produced an Arduino Expansion board that plugs in to the Expansion Dock and provides direct access from the Omega1 to Arduinos and Arduino shields (see https://github.com/KitBishop/Omega-Arduino-Expansion)
I am probably going to have to redo this to incorporate some level shifters to accommodate the Omega2 3.3v only.
You shouldn't need to do anything with a .bin file to fix a jffs2 error, unless you've flashed a .bin file for the wrong board (2 vs 2+, or worse original Omega), or you used one of the bad .bin files that were published months ago (and hopefully withdrawn??)
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