DIY Onion-Mini-Dock

  • hello I dont think the width of the Omega itself will fit breadboard plus the 2.54mm pitch headers. So it is not possible to be breadboard friendly anyway, except for the breadboard dock (expensive) which makes the board longer.
    Now will wait for your PCB...

  • One approach could be to put the 100-mil pins inside the 2mm ones.

    But if your goal is something breadboardable, you may be better off with a Linkit Smart anyway

  • @Chris-Stratton Tbh, the Omega2 itself is already too wide for breadboard-use, even without a dock and even if it did use 2.54mm headers -- there wouldn't be enough room on either side of it to connect anything. As such the dock doesn't really change anything in that regards.

  • The omega2 is only a tiny faction of a row wider than a Linkit Smart, which leaves a row clear on each side when its 100-mil headers are inserted into a breadboard. Putting the 100-mil headers inside the 2mm ones could potentially even allow a second row accessible under the overhang (module could be unplugged by wiring).

    But that's a "just saying" - if I personally wanted to breadboard something, I'd use the Linkit Smart, while in actuality I'm working with a slightly narrower surface mount module on custom application PCBs.

  • WereCatf's intent with her Omega board is to connect to it with female jumper wires. Those wanting a breadboardable dock (simply use two small boards as in my photo) should take a look at Charles Hallard's GPIO version board. The bare boards are available from In my initial testing - the boards just arrived here and require soldering some tiny parts - my Omegas work fine on his docks. Have tested with several UARTs, this is pictured. If you buy this UART, I would replace the switch with a jumper wire to remove any possibility of sending 5V to the Omega.
    0_1487971100121_Hallard full GPIO.jpg

  • This post is deleted!

  • @Chris-Stratton Thanks, post corrected.

  • @Ken-Conrad looks good, but I may require USB host...
    Waiting for @Daniel-Andrade PCB...

  • I received my PCBs today and I see that I've made a mistake: the ESD-protection prevents the USB-host port from working right. Removing the resistor and capacitor (or not soldering them in the first place) allows it to work. Leaving those out just means a slightly less protected USB-port, otherwise the board works fine, so I'm not in a hurry to design a fix. I'll do it when I feel like it.
    (The microUSB-port is missing, because Chinaman sent me wrong connectors -- they don't match the holes on the PCB. Just gotta wait for the right ones to arrive in the mail.)