I've thought about how I want to solve this and since I plan on designing some sort of 3D printable case or housing, I will just be sure to add some bracing on the top of the connector to hold it down and make sure it doesn't flex. I'm not sure when I will have time to tackle this but when I do, I can make available to the community.
antelm1978
@antelm1978
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RE: Dash — be *very* careful plugging in the power
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RE: Dash — be *very* careful plugging in the power
I don't have an Omega2 Pro but I did compare this to my Omega2 LTE, (which uses a USB-C connector but otherwise the same attachment design) and it's pretty clear this is a manufacturing issue so I hope Onion takes note and corrects for future runs.
The issue is that the support tabs should be inserted into the holes on the PCB. Instead, they are flattened out to the sides but there are no pads to solder them to for anchoring. This leaves all the support on the backend of the connector and the pins are not strong enough to provide structural support so that really just leaves the two rear anchor pads. And I can't clearly see the underside of the rear part of the connector but it looks like there's very little contact with the pads. Based on the dimensions and how much of the pads are exposed, it looks like less than a third of the pads is actually making contact with the rear part of the connectors, which is very thin metal under plastic.
Axial force will break off this connector easily.
I wouldn't recommend a novice attempt this but if you have decent soldering skills (and, ideally, a rework station or hot air gun with nozzles to assist) you could remove this connector from the PCB, bend the tabs to fit into the slots on the PCB to resolder. This will almost certainly void the warranty but if you have decent soldering skills, you probably void warranties all the time.
Otherwise, you have to be very careful with how you connect a cable and make sure the cable is not applying weight which will cause the connector to pivot along that rear axis of the connector. It appears that there is adhesive under the connector to add some strength but superglue is a poor substitute for solder and may have, in fact, compromised the integrity of the existing solder joints. And it looks like the superglue might not make good contact with the front of the connector as it's slightly raised from the base.