My Omega 2/2+ dock\new
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In Omega2, although that PIN is labeled as Ether_Power, there is no internal connection (N/C), so it is as good as "does not connect" to anything or "just floating".
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@ccs-hello So it's unnecessary to connect the center taps with VOUT pin? It's enough to connect it to the capacitor?
BTW i changed username so it might appear that i'm another user (in fact i can no longer edit the posts above), but i'm still Valerio Backslashnew
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looks like a nice board. i'm wondering if you have any plans to have some fabrication[pcb] firm make a batch and you sell them or at least offer for sale through the pcb firm.?
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@Douglas-Kryder i have some spare boards from the v0.9 prototype run. I can consider giving out those boards to recover the prototyping costs.(the v0.9 boards need some track cut and some wire bodge)
Maybe i can also make a small batch of boards with all the components soldered so that who can't solder, can still get his own.
How about that?
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@valerionew said in My Omega 2/2+ dock\new:
So it's unnecessary to connect the center taps with VOUT pin? It's enough to connect it to the capacitor?
Yes and yes.
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@valerionew hi. if you get the bugs worked out of the board and either you have them for sale or the pcb place has them for order i would be interested in at least 1 and maybe a couple more depending on cost or, if you can make a kit with all the components un-soldered that would save the cost of getting all the pieces i don't have available here that would be good. if all you plan to offer is soldered units then 1 of those if you can keep the cost relatively low.
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pros: very nice! i need 1-3 of them.
cons: hard to use GPIO without soldering.
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@Douglas-Kryder and @Andrii-Petrenko if you want multiple boards i can recommend you to get them from OSHPark. They've done a really good job with v0.9, plus their boards are purple like the omega. I've already uploaded the board here. I have to remember you that the v1.0 is not tested yet, so proceed at your own risk. The same circuit with bodges works on v0.9 but you never know what can go wrong.
Also, i'm trying to contact some chinese manufacturers to get their best price for the RJ45 connector with magnetics, which is the most expensive part in the project. I'll let you know if i can get their attention and an offer for such low volume.@Andrii-Petrenko for the lack of IOs, this wasn't my first intention with this project, but i think you can try to squeeze in some SMD .1" angled headers on the back side of the ethernet connector. Something like this
With the omega 2 you should be able to place 2x8 pins. With 3.3v and GND, that's 14 GPIOs.
On the omega 2+ there is the SD card there, so unless you somehow raise the two omega strip connectors (there is some extra pin lenght on the strips i used), you will be able to place only 1 row, giving you 6 GPIOs available, plus 3.3v and GND.
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And, of course, thank you to the onion team for featuring my project into the newsletter!
I'm really glad you like it!
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It's great that this just came to my attention, because I've been "building" a harness that has a micro-usb in for power, an LD1117 to step it down, and then has the USB host port for a camera to hook up. I found a 10cm (4") micro-usb female cable (so a phone charging cord would plug into it) and cut the end off and soldered it to the LD1117. The 5v and ground from it are also soldered to another 10cm cable, this one a USB-A female cable that I also chopped the end off of. I'm waiting for 2mm female jumpers to arrive before I can hook up the ground, 3.3V, USB+ and USB-. Your solution is so much cleaner and smaller!
And, looking at your schematic, I see you have TTL between the usb +/- and the onion...I thought I read some things saying that it would hurt do that, but also isn't necessary. I take it, that I'm wrong about that, and need the TTL?
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A couple of noob questions around crafting such an elegant board: how/where to get the board (oh, I see you answered that, OSH Park); and how to get all the smd stuff soldered to it.
The only thing I've seen about smd says that you have to get your spouse's clearance to bake the stuff in the oven. Is there a provider like OSH Park that will do it? Will OSH Park? If not, can you point out any good info...getting solder onto the board before the baking seems...problematic for us lesser hobbyists.
I don't think that you manually soldered the board in the pictures, so how did you get that done? The baking option?
At any rate, if you do offer these for sale, I'll take 2.
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@Me-Too I've just replied to an issue on GihHub with (i hope) all the answers you need. I don't know if that one is also from you or not.
Please check it out here: https://github.com/5N44P/omega-dock-new/issues/10
If i've not answered all your question, please ask! Here or on GitHub.
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@Me-Too i would add to the discussion that the boards come in 3-packs for ~ $9US. it might be easier if you use solder paste for some of the components, put a adequate amount on the pad and place the piece then use either a soldering iron or hot air or in a pinch put it into a heated oven i suppose (never done it) if you do the oven you might want to mount all pieces first. otherwise you will be reheating the solder multiple times on some components and i'm not sure if that is best thing to do. my order is waiting on osh park getting a full panel so if you order soon it might help us all get the boards quicker.
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Guys-you're great!
Yes, @valerionew, you're right that I asked in both places. I created a gist before I found this, and decided it might be useful to have it here, too. Thank you so much for the answer and listing the equipment you have! I doubt I'll buy what you have (sometimes I'm cheap about the wrong things, but I won't use these very much), but it's great to see the actual equipment to see if what I have might suffice.
My fear of SMD is due to previous experience where the contacts and pads were completely obscured by the part. That made baking (which I read an article once about doing smd that way) or possibly hot-air, but only sometimes on the air.
@Douglas-Kryder Thanks to you too...the solder paste seems like a great, and easier idea, even though I've never used it. I'm glad it's 3 packs, so I can still get 2 if I screw up the first attempt!
Oh, and I'm placing the order now, so maybe that will help get them quicker.
Mike
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@Allnight , forgot to mention that there are many videos on youtube that show methods of smd soldering.
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By the way i checked the ethernet speed with iperf. Seems good to me. (94.4Mbit/s up and down, in case the image doesn't work)
I'm using a 0.1uF instead of 1uF capacitor to ground the center tap of the transformer, but i don't think that's significant. If you happen to have a 0.1uF 0805 capacitor instead of 1uF, don't bother buying a 1uF one.
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FYI...I just got a from OSHPark that my order is in fab right now. It says there are 81 other orders for a total of 543 boards on this panel. That is pretty cool!
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i need a bit of help/advice. i was looking for the ethernet jack in u.s. and the exact part# given in bom it seems is only marketed in europe. so i did some searching at digikey , had a few picked out & bought what i thought was close. turns out what i was sent has the lights. so, 2 questions,
- is there a way to get lights to work?
- is it ok to drill holes for the pins?
as far as function of the 2 pins i'm guessing they are + & ground for power to the lights. this would be a nice feature to have if possible. thanks in advance for any comments someone may have on this issue.
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@Douglas-Kryder said in My Omega 2/2+ dock\new:
- is there a way to get lights to work?
No, the right pins are not wired out from the chip.
On the Omega2S, as reported here, they are, but unfortunately not on the Omega2/2+.- is it ok to drill holes for the pins?
as far as function of the 2 pins i'm guessing they are + & ground for power to the lights. this would be a nice feature to have if possible. thanks in advance for any comments someone may have on this issue.
I wouldn't suggest that, because top plane is +3.3V, bottom ground plane is ground. There's a big risk of making a short on the power if some pin somehow touches exposed copper on top and bottom.
I suggest you to snip them off, as close as possible to the plastic case
Anyway i'll consider making some holes (not connected) in the project, in future versions
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Do you plan to offer these commercially (assembled)? They would fit perfectly for a project I am working on.
