Access point not found
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@patrick-seb said in Access point not found:
Ok will eventually do, but can you confirm that normally you only need to give 3.3V / 2A and you should see Omega-XXXX in your wifi manager - because the board is by default an access point (I don't see where bonjour is involved in this, but anyway I am testing on a mac)?
Even ~250mA should be enough, but yes, that is how it should work, though if you're using very thin wires they may introduce too much of a voltage-drop for the Omega2 to run and it that case you should try thicker wires or shorter wires, or even both. But still, looking at the output on the serial-port would be useful.
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@Brad-Buskey said in Access point not found:
@patrick-seb Bonjour is required for Windows machines to connect easily and by name to the devices. Your original post said nothing about the machine you were using to connect. Macs are still not the majority of machines in the market, thus the question about Bonjour.
Bonjour is irrelevant here. The OP clearly said they aren't even seeing the WiFi AP and bonjour has absolutely nothing to do with WiFi.
Why not get a wall charger from your phone and plug in the device. SOME USB ports (even on Macs) do not have enough power to power the device.
FYI - I only ever get a consistent connection on a power supply that is 5V == 2.0 A
Pushing 5 volts into the 3.3V pins would fry the Omega2. Bad advice.
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@Brad-Buskey said in Access point not found:
Why not get a wall charger from your phone and plug in the device. SOME USB ports (even on Macs) do not have enough power to power the device.
I am using a digital control dc power supply (rated at 30V 5A) so I guess it can output a clean 3.3V at 2A no problem.
From what I can observe:
When booting, the amber led is on for 1 minute, after that it turn off for 1 sec every 20 sec...
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Time you use that nice digital storage scope you have sitting next to it.
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put it on the console serial port see if it continues to say anything (of course this is inferrior to using a logic-level USB serial adapter to actually recover the messages)
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put it on the power rail and watch how your supply responds to the very pulsed load demand of an MT7688 when it brings up wifi.
Even before that though, get shorter supply leads.
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@patrick-seb nice bit of kit you have there. You would certainly think that should be up to the job to power the Omega.
If your Omega is not faulty and your 30V 5A power supply is not adequate god help the rest of us, and Onion have a lot of explaining to do.
When my Omega 2 and 2+'s arrived I thought I would just hook up any 3.3V feed and be on my way. How wrong was I. After some trial and error I got a couple of power feeds that are working fine but the Omega's are not exactly plug and play.
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@Costas-Costas said in Access point not found:
When my Omega 2 and 2+'s arrived I thought I would just hook up any 3.3V feed and be on my way. How wrong was I. After some trial and error I got a couple of power feeds that are working fine but the Omega's are not exactly plug and play.
A lot of people's troubles come from either poor power-supply, or too long/thin wiring. I'm happily using a cheap-and-nasty 0.70€ step-down converter ( www.ebay.com/itm/mini-DC-DC-Converter-Step-Down-Buck-Power-Supply-Module-For-Flight-Control-Car-/262329973956 ) with mine without any issue, whatsoever:
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@WereCatf I think your comment highlights the problem. 70 cents works for you and a few hundred Euros doesn't work for poor @patrick-seb
No offence to Patrick but I hope his Omega is faulty and that normally a power supply costing a few hundred Euros is just about adequate.
"Too long or too thin" is a pretty poor position in my book.
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@Costas-Costas said in Access point not found:
"Too long or too thin" is a pretty poor position in my book.
No, it's not. Ask any professional EE and they'll tell you that wiring matters. The length and the thickness of the wiring affects the voltage-drop caused by them -- the longer the wire and the thinner the wire, the bigger the voltage-drop.
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@patrick-seb are you an EE?
Here is my set up with an AMS1117. Around 25 cents when bought in bulk, or 50 cents if you just want one delivered to your door. Swap you?
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@WereCatf said in Access point not found:
The length and the thickness of the wiring affects the voltage-drop caused by them -- the longer the wire and the thinner the wire, the bigger the voltage-drop.
That is what i was reading about the length & thickness of the USB cables. This is quite a poker game if there are just cheep lousy cables around.
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@patrick-seb this is another one of my Omega power supplies. The feed is coming from a power adaptor that can be set to 3 / 4.5 / 5 / 6 / 9 or 12V. I have it set at 9V and the picture shows a setting of 5.41V on the step down regulator, which is fed into another AMS1117.
For the Omega to work, with precisely the wire length and gauge I have, it has to be exactly this magic (9V to 5.41V to 3.3V). Do you play poker?
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@Costas-Costas Mate, all you're doing is arguing with people who know better than you. You clearly don't have a fucking clue on what a voltage-drop means or how wire-thickness and -length come into question. I have that exact same drop-down converter as you have in the picture, and lookit it here:
With lengthy, thin wires from the power-supply to the converter the Omega2 fails to stay powered-on, the LED goes off after a bit. Then, I removed the wires, reducing the voltage-drop between the power-supply and the buck-converter, and what do you know? The Omega2 works fine!
Shall we play that poker now?
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@patrick-seb ignore the profanities and do let us know how you get on.
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FWIW I have not seen good results with these LM2596 modules and MT7688 boards. What I don't yet know is if the LM2596 itself responds poorly to pulsed loads, the capacitors on the regulator boards are underperforming due to cost-cutting, or the issue is with the upstream supply to the module.
But short leads are definitely a good idea, for reasons of inductance as well as resistive loss.
The challenge of an MT7688 system is not time-average or "getting hot" power - absent problems that is quite low - but rather pulsed loads that double the baseline load.
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@WereCatf Pololu.com explains LC voltage spikes and drops in longer power leads pretty well here - https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J16/all . Seems when Omega2s have flaky performance there could be supply power filtering issues.
Also, in my experience the cheapest Chinese wire leads have at best three or four strands of the thinnest possible recycled copper "wire".
I'll take some well designed testing over Vegas odds, any day.
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@Ken-Conrad I'm not sure why you're telling me that, when I'm the one who was saying all along that wiring matters.
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@WereCatf I agree with you and your post, although I am not here to choose sides. Did you have a chance to look at the www.Pololu Support pages? The take-away from their testing is that small ceramic capacitors typically aren't effective at reducing voltage spikes caused by long power leads, etc. Is the MT7688 tolerant to 25+ V spikes? Their 'scope plots could graphically show why the MT7688 is going nuts. Pololu found that a larger electrolytic cap with high ESR will dampen or eliminate the potentially damaging voltage spikes often found at power on.
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@Ken-Conrad Um, no. The common issue people have with the Omega isn't a voltage-spike, it's a current-draw spike when the OS tries to fire up the Wi-Fi -- poor wiring or power-supply can't supply enough current and omega resets or shuts down. That's exactly what was going on in the example I showed above, too.
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@WereCatf I quite concur with pretty well everything you say.
Pretty well everyone who is having power supply related issues is using some cobbled up system to supply the power.
While I am highly supportive of anyone who wants to experiment and build there own systems, a basic understanding of electronics/electric supply and the related physics is essential.
Some of the solutions I have seen suggested seem excessively involved and probably incur greater cost and effort than the proven workable solutions: Use:- a mini dock or expansion dock
- a pretty standard 5v. cell phone charger with micro-USB cable - preferably 500mA or more
All this is likely to be little more expensive than some solutions I've seen and usually more compact
The only area where a bit more investment might be required is if you need to run without connection to the mains and run off (e.g.) LiPo batteries - even then there are plenty of cheap, off the shelf devices that will do what is needed.
Finally, probably the main points that people need to bear in mind are:
- Keep leads short and not too thin
- Ensure that suitable decoupling capacitors are used (either built in to any device or separately applied - and close to the powered device)
- Ensure the power source can handle the peak expected current - not just the expected average current - a good design principle is to always allow a margin for safety here
- The actual voltage at the device is close to that specified
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Thank you everyone, that was it (too long wires). So anyone reading this, your device should consume +-250ma after 30 sec or so and goes back to +-170ma. If you have the amber led turning off for 1 sec, that is because the omega is rebooting .
Onion
It would be nice to specify this information in this page:
https://docs.onion.io/omega2-docs/hardware-prep-no-dock.htmlEven in the pictures it looks like you are using long & thin wires...
Cheers
