@sam-walton The easiest way to set the state of a GPIO at boot is to add the relevant command to the /etc/rc.local file. Depending on your requirements you would use something like gpioctl dirout-low 18

Hi. I finished pcb mounting. Here is the some photo. I developed capabilities. Project has 4 relay output 4 open collector output 4 optocoupler input 16 GPIO pins with 3.3 volts and 5 volts support (PIC24FJ256106 MCU including remap pins) 12 GPIO pins OMEGA2+ 6 User led (PIC) 2 User led (Omega2+) USB Debug support (Omega2+) USB Host Port (Omega2+) USB Host / Client Port (PIC) Ethernet Clock (DS1307) 8K Eeprom (24C64) XBee compatible socket (I am using HMTRP transceiver on HMTRP-XBee Shield) I will write about in my blog fidenetgaraj.blogspot.com

Regarding the relays, maybe think about SSR (solid state relays). They're a bit more expensive but controllable with logic signals and available up to very high current - beyond 100A at mains voltages. The AC one also generally offer zero crossing switching i.e. switch at the 0V portion of the AC cycle. HTH.

...and now it's completely shit the bed and disconnected from wifi. Factory reset, and wifisetup doesn't find either of my networks, but happily finds the neighbours.

@Michal-Rok Thanks. I was thinking that an array of transistors to ground each relay pin might be the simplest way for me to ensure I don't overload the pins and this would fit the bill nicely.

Read the docs, everything is there and is explained clearly. https://docs.onion.io/omega2-docs/gpio-python-module.html You have to replace pi-style gpio calls by omega-style, eg instead of GPIO.output(9, GPIO.LOW) use status = gpio9.setValue(0)

I don't know if you are still awaiting replies to this post from April. Maybe you've already tried your idea and either melted the relay, or not. Having just messed up badly with something like this myself, I urge you to be VERY CONSERVATIVE with how much current you switch with an electromagnetic relay. Also, use an ohmmeter to measure the off-resistance of the heater you wish to switch. I don't know about heater coils, but incandescent bulbs have very low off resistance -- leading to very high turn-on currents -- that need to be taken into account when controlling them with relays. Another approach is to control a solid state relay (of more than sufficient capacity) with your micro-controlled relay. The downside is you then have to provide the power to that loop. These things are often quite cheap and durable. Good luck!

@Martin-Oberg Looks good, Thanks for sharing! I tested out your code on one of my original Omega, and was also having issues with running out of space. When I have some time I'll try again with my Omega2+ and add more space with an SD card. I've been too busy with work to get anywhere with my own project, but am looking for the best way to add server-side functionality to this project. It would be great to be able to change the setpoint, show last off time, and set minimum off time. Any suggestions on the best way to do this? I'm trying to learn more about PHP, and also looking at node.js. Once I have an Omega controlling my draft cooler, my goal is to replace the arduino controlling my brewery now. Hopefully I will be far enough along with that project to have something worth sharing in a couple more weeks.

Good spot.. only because it is attached the same tool that has a thermometer on it too. The thermometer was my main way to tell the temperature in the office before I got the Omega setup. Compass is, clearly, useless when vertical (and next to power conduit).

@Brad-Buskey said in omega_garage: if I am on my motorcycle and come home, I want the door to open automatically (if the radius is possible). I see where you are going with this, a Bat Cave Garage Door. It certainly is possible. Anything that will try to automatically connect to your main controler via WiFi or blutooth (with proper security signature) will do to alert it. About the open/close state of the door, maybe your system already has a light that you could use. If not, the simplest and cheapest way is to use a magnet switch (magnet on the door + glass fuse-like switch on the door frame).

I too would like this.

Nice! Thanks a lot for this. Looking forward to the phpwrapper

@None-None it is definitely possible, after all the Relay Expansion is controlled through I2C. If you want to work it out for yourself, you can take a look at the i2c-exp-driver repo on GitHub. Start with https://github.com/OnionIoT/i2c-exp-driver/blob/master/src/relay-exp.c You'll see that it uses functions from: https://github.com/OnionIoT/i2c-exp-driver/blob/master/src/lib/onion-mcp23008-driver.c You'll be able to see the register responsible for controlling the state of the relays. If you don't wanna work it out for yourself... lemme know and I'll tell you

I think the problem is that apache is running as nobody and the relay-exp is only accessible from root. Changing apache to run as root is not possible without rebuild... ... Apache has not been designed to serve pages whil running as root. There are known race conditions that will allow any local user to read any file on the system. If you still desire to serve pages as root then add -DBIG_SECURITY_HOLE to the CFLAGS env variable and then rebuild the server. Is there a solution?

@Anders-Öster, The input to the PowerSwitch Tail is an optocoupler, with an input current range of about 3 - 30mA at a forward voltage of about 1.4V in the "ON" state. The modifications I have proposed will allow the Omega (whose I/O circuitry runs off a 2.5V supply) to provide at least 3mA when ON. If a 5V input is used instead of the Omega, the input current (with these modifications) becomes about 15mA, which is still well within the operating range for the PowerSwitch Tail's input current.

Hi @Daniel-Wright, you can turn it off with the Console's Settings app. There is a check mark that enables the AP. If you uncheck that then it will be turned off.