@baby-Onioneer try starting in safe mode then deleting /etc/config/wireless and reboot.

@T-NT My understanding is that the Oboo clock is a consumer device, so I'm not sure why @Onion would provide documentation on how to use the device from a technical perspective. When I remove the casing from my Blackberry KeyOne I don't expect BlackBerry to provide me with documentation on how to gain shell access to the device. Since the Oboo utilises an Omega2S+, we can refer to the relevant documentation.

@bigdogsb : After reading your post, I switched to Omega2+ to provide gateway service to my primary workstation. The Omega is using a Linksys WiFi as its gateway, and is powered with an expansion dock. The connectivity is: WS (WiFi) => Omega2+ (AP+STA) => Linksys => Internet. It is more than 5 days since my experiment started; and the workstation was never shutdown. Here is the last dmesg line from the workstation: [502020.417869] usb 2-1.6: USB disconnect, device number 89. When I check the logs, I don't see any WiFi related problems. Needless to say,I never had any connectivity problems while using the workstation. I can access the Omega2+ (and the Linksys as well), using my cellphone from about 100 feet away, two dry walls in the middle. I use an apple A1400 power supply (5V, 1A) using the expansion dock, to power the Omega. I also used the power supply that came with a Xperia without any problems. When I used another power supply, that came with another cellphone, I had problems. Bottom line is, Omega is stable wrt WiFi, as long as you feed it with a reputed power supply. I would advise you to carry out the following. 1.Download the "omega2p-v0.3.2-b233.bin" from http://repo.onioniot.com/omega2/images/ It is the b233 release of the firmware for Omega2+ into your workstation. So you have a backup for future use. 2.scp or use a sd card to transfer the fw to Omega's /tmp directory 3.Execute: :tmp# sysupgrade -n omega2p-v0.3.2-b233.bin from the UART0 connection. This will upgrade and reboot the omega. 4.Execute: :/# wifisetup and select "1) Scan for Wifi networks". It will give the list of available WiFi APs, as below: Selection: 1 Scanning for wifi networks... Select Wifi network: 1.D-Link 2.linksys 5.Pick your choice and provide the key, as below: Selection: 2 Network: linksys Encryption type: psk2 Enter password: That is all about the wifi setup. Once you get the prompt back, you can check the Internet connectivity by ping'ing some hosts in the Internet. It is advisable to change the default AP key of the Omega2+. For that execute: :/# uci set wireless.ap.key='your_new_key' :/# uci commit :/# /etc/init.d/network restart If you executed, the "uci set.." command before #4, the other two commands would have been automatically executed by the wifisetup. Let us know how it goes.. Thanks..

@György-Farkas Thank you

@user5456 Official Onion Omega2 Documentation Updating the Bootloader I'm afraiid - using this method - you can flash (update/restore) Omega2's UBoot with a well working UBoot. Is the internal flash accessible over the SPI pins? It depends. You have an Omega2S+ module on a Development Board where the SPI pins of the modul's on-board flash are exposed to MOSI, MISO, CLK, CS0. So - in this case - the answer is (most probably) YES.

@Bülent-Çelik yes

@György-Farkas wow yes my password was incorrect Solved here following that : https://community.onion.io/topic/1291/solved-i-may-have-bricked-it-empty-folders-instead-of-console/6

@Ilya-Mordasov i am also facing same issue if u solve that issue can u share me that working firmware please.

Did anyone reported something like that before? How long do I need to wait to get that replaced / repaired?

@György-Farkas Thank you! I ended up taking the Omega2 out of the dock and connecting via serial to RX0 and TX0, and it seems to have done the trick.

RESOLVED: After reading https://community.onion.io/topic/1762/omega2-flash-omega2p-v0-1-10-b162-bin-break, I copied the firmware to a 1 GB flash drive I had in a drawer (instead of the 64 GB one I keep with my computer). It is now going through the restore process as expected. @Global-Moderators you guys really need to pull firmware builds that are known to cause bricking.

@Ken-Conrad said in USB boot without serial: @Sebastian-Nilsson Maybe, but be careful with the PL2303 USB TTL-adapter boards or cables - the one I have (came with a Raspberry Pi- Adafruit) measures 5 volts on the Vcc line and 4.7V on the data lines and there is no jumper option for 3v3. The Omegas are rated at 3.3 ~ 3.6V. I powered an Omega2 for perhaps an hour with that PL2303 and the Omega's RF shield got really hot, then I measured the voltage on the PL2303's lines and decided not to do that again! If you care about the longevity of your Omega powering it with 5V is not a good choice. A CP210X adapter like WereCatf recommended is the USB TTL adapter to get, they always work and have 3V3 lines. hi, i bought a new dock instead with serial

Guys, this one is closed. I am just an idiot and didn't properly follow through with some of the pre-existing solved threads. Thanks for helping me and making me realize that I might be able to fix this myself!

@Peter-Mertz Congrats and good work to finding your fix. Now to help the others who find this in the future, please edit [resolved] to the end of the thread's title.

@Chris-Stratton said in Omega2+ does not turn on: Might want to be careful about that - unless there's level translation circuitry in there, you are putting substantial stress on the MT7688 serial pins (input especially) by connecting that 3.3v device to a 5v Arduino. This is one of the issues I have with the Omega2 as against the Omega1. The Omega1 runs on the same 3.3v but the IO pins were explicitly stated to be 5v tolerant. They play well with Arduino and Arduino shields running on 5v. I even produced an Arduino Expansion board that plugs in to the Expansion Dock and provides direct access from the Omega1 to Arduinos and Arduino shields (see https://github.com/KitBishop/Omega-Arduino-Expansion) I am probably going to have to redo this to incorporate some level shifters to accommodate the Omega2 3.3v only. That said, there are some Arduino Shields that run on 3.3v. There is also an Arduino that itself runs on 3.3v (Arduino Pro 328 - 3.3V/8MHz) while still using the standard Arduino Uno header layout (see https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10914). And finally there are instructions available to convert a standard Arduino Uno to run on 3.3v - see: https://learn.adafruit.com/arduino-tips-tricks-and-techniques/3-3v-conversion

@Barry-Borgleson glad to hear you got it working! @Larry-Pinney lol code bogarts. we have no intention of hoarding source code, but as you can imagine we've been pretty swamped. we will release our source code. thank you for your patience and support